|Verrocchio's David painted to look like the original|
Much of the time your printed statues will be done with white plastic which paints up surprising well. If you want a more natural finish to which you don't need to do a lot painting, have it printed in brown.
|St. Jeanne was printed in brown plastic and then I highlighted it to help bring out the details.|
Most finished 3D printed pieces are not smooth. They have striations from the printing process. To minimize these, I first either sand or scrape with an X-Acto blade to even out the area. Then I paint the piece with gesso. If the striations are particularly noticeable, you need to use Liquitex modeling paste which helps you fill in the minor gaps and dries hard.
For painting bronze pieces, I use Modern Options Blackened Bronze Base. (I used this years ago for some larger plaster pieces and it works great as a base.) A dark brown acrylic paint would do something similar. For more of a bronze/gold look as with the Night statue and the Sphinx, I then rub on DecoArt Metallic Lustre (Iced Espresso). Go light at first and continue till satisfied. If you want the greenish bronze like the Egyptian cat above, I do a wash of DecoArt Moss Pearl Metallic acrylic paint.
|The figure, statue of Mars, ram-headed chair, and Caesar bust are all 3D printed.|
For marble, I tend to use the Martha Stewart Wet Cement Satin Acrylic, lightened with white. When dry, I do a light wash of burnt umber acrylic or a grey acrylic. I spend a lot time at Michael’s comparing pictures of similar full-scale pieces with the paints available.
A technique I found online with people doing military figures is adding a tiny bit of denatured alcohol to the acrylic paint. It helps create a wash.
If your finished piece is too shiny, use Liquitex Ultra Matte Gel.
These are some things that helped me with my painting.
Painting figures: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GSnbLdNZ-ls\
Painting statues: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OzLpt7iNeLM